Stopping the passage of time in our bodies seems to be one of the objectives of science in recent years. From the development of more effective therapies against diseases, to new aesthetic treatments that try to take care of our external image and our health.
The skin is one of the organs where research has focused the most. Cosmetic companies deploy a veritable arsenal of products such as: anti-wrinkle creams, orthomolecular ampoules, aesthetic treatments with cutting-edge technology equipment, pharmacological preparations, etc. The spread of these new procedures has also attracted the attention of those who prefer to make natural preparations such as those produced by our grandmothers based on cinnamon, chia, aloe vera, ginseng, ginkgo biloba, among others.
Specialists never tire of repeating that there are no magic treatments and that whatever we do must be accompanied by a healthy diet, water consumption and efficient sun protection. In particular, in recent years, the massive use of protective creams against the sun has begun to mark our society. The application of these prevents sunburn, photoaging, skin photosensitization and carcinogenesis, among others.
These products protect against both natural and artificial ultraviolet radiation, therefore, their use is not only recommended for days outdoors but also for work in front of various screens. For this reason, the use of sunscreens has ceased to be simple creams that are only used in summer, to be an essential part of any skin care routine. To a large extent, because of the consequences of the thinning of the stratospheric ozone layer.
In addition to the ozone layer that filters out the most damaging ultraviolet rays, human skin contains a photoprotective pigment called melanin. This pigment is an antioxidant agent that absorbs radiation (UVB, UVA and visible blue light) and works as a shield to prevent the direct action of the rays on the DNA of our cells. In addition, the other UV rays lead to the activation of biological processes that are involved in aging, the appearance of wrinkles and sagging skin. However, the amount of melanin in the skin depends on the phototype (skin color) and, in most people, endogenous melanin is not enough for full protection, especially in summer.
The photoprotective efficacy of these creams is determined through two main parameters: the sun protection factor (SPF) and the degree of UVA protection (PA), both parameters depend exclusively on the components of the cream. In addition, the improvement of these formulations is essential to stop the action of time. In this sense, from biotechnology, they seek to produce natural molecules with a photoprotective function without generating a great environmental impact.
Biotechnology is the technological application of knowledge obtained from living beings or part of them. Organisms that live in extreme environments such as salt flats, deserts, ocean depths and magnetic chambers have more than interesting characteristics against ultraviolet radiation and, in general, the molecules that give them this particularity can be used to develop more efficient, eco-friendly sunscreens. -profitable and high performance. Natural compounds that can be obtained from these living beings act in three ways: by stimulating the skin’s natural protection, by developing a protective shield on the skin, or by stimulating other mechanisms in the skin that are not related to pigmentation.
For example, several organisms produce eumelanin, a type of melanin that could be incorporated into sun creams to form a protective layer on the skin. This compound can be obtained from organisms such as cuttlefish, the tea plant or the bacteria Pseudomonas maltophylia. Although due to its dark color, the preparation has not been used so far in commercial sunscreens. However, with the improvements provided by nanotechnology, nanoparticles that carry eumelanin are being developed to add and improve formulations.
Other ideal compounds to add to these creams and that slow down the consequences of UV rays have antioxidant activities, such as flavonoids, carotenes or quinolones. Some of the natural sources that contain these antioxidants are: aloe vera, tomato, cactus, vine, tea, pomegranate, Ranunculus bulumei (a herb widely used in Indonesia), while anti-inflammatory compounds such as flucoxanthin or topsentin, which could also be added to the formulations.
From the cultivation of these organisms and their products, the aforementioned compounds can be obtained and improve the characteristics of current sunscreens. Although several companies continue to search for the best natural formulations, they have not been able to mass-produce these products; however, many artisan cosmiatrists develop protective creams for patients with sensitive skin.
Despite the fact that biotechnology is becoming the best ally of medicine (oncology, metabolic diseases, vaccines, etc.), reducing sun exposure continues to be the best prevention tool in the field of dermatology.
The author is director of the Degree in Biotechnology and Degree in Bioinformatics, UADE
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